The Vietnamese Xoi Chien Phong..a fried "sesame ball" with one BOLD statement~!

From the north-eastern corner of China, to the southern parts of Canton, it was the Vietnamese version of the fried rice balls (known to most as sesame balls) that challenged the stretch of my irises for my macula to absorb it all!


Speaking of indulgence during Thanksgiving, the fried sesame balls are the Asian version with a festive origin, though similar to the perfectly roasted turkey, these fried treats have also managed to trickled into the repertoire of the daily menu. From the corner congee shop to an extravagance dim sum parlour, these fragrant jewels with a unique mochi-chewy texture are here to stay, and sometimes with a hidden luscious molten surprise.


As simple and innocent as this golden gem appears, the making itself is a perfect marriage of science and art. The gleaming hot oil transfer the kinetic energy into the pocketed air within a dense glutinous dough. As the air expands in a discordance manner, this is where the artist comes in. Exercising his/her craftsmanship, the chef is able to engineer a uniform sphere with the precise thickness that brings forth the perfect union of texture, flavour, and scent. The delicate architecture of the crust comprised of a thin crispy armor, layered with a chewy comforting interior to showcased the aroma of sweet rice, without carrying the heaviness from the fried nature.


The Vietnamese version, Xoi chien phong just bring this art to a whole new horizon. It was hard to imagine with a wok filled with fragrant oil and two long utensils, the magician has managed to transform a dough of less than 5 ingredients, into a steaming alluring sculpture that is the size of a watermelon. I hope that this art will not be lost in translation, but growing enthusiastic crowd of unique dines, my fears should be nothing but a misty veil..







~ Traditional Chinese Sesame Balls ~

500g Glutinous flour
100g Water
100g Sugar
~2L Vegetable Oil
Filling is optional, but can use Adzuki paste, Black Sesame paste, Mung Bean paste, or to be more adventurous, you can try to incorporate Western ingredients like pumpkin or sweet potato puree!

1) Mix 100g of glutinous flour with 100g of water, and knead it to form a dough.
2) Cook the dough in boiling water until it floats and cooked through. It will turn slightly transparent.
3) Place the cooked dough in a mixing bowl and knead in the remaining flour and sugar, until it comes to a doughy consistancy.
4) Form dough balls with 1.5 inches in diameter. Flatten the dough and use it to encase the filling.
5) Heat the oil in a deep pot to 325oF, and using the double fried method, fry the dough balls to till it is light golden in colour. The balls should double in size. Remove them from the pot and increase the temperature of the oil to 375oF. Fry the partially cooked balls till it is golden amber.

Bon Appetit~!

The Thread of Luster Gold....Foi Thong showcases the humble duck egg....

Mesmerised by the gleaming golden yarns, accompanied with the intense scent from the richness of duck egg yolks, my friend Lin has expanded my scope in Thai desserts, and the uniqueness in texture tempted me to explore further..a dessert originated from Portugal that brings prosperity and happiness..


Foi thong means gold fibres, and these miniature "skeins" of delicacies are the perfect demonstration of the art of simplicity. Immersed in modern cuisines are that often praised for the intricate balance of complex flavours and texture, it is almost refreshing to learn that this dessert consists of only three ingredients, duck eggs, sugar, and water.


To achieve the desired stringy texture, the duck egg yolks mixed with a small amount of egg-dew, the light egg white remaining in the egg shells, is lightly stirred unidirectional until a smooth consistency is reached. A fine string of the batter is then allowed to flow annularly from a small hole at the tip of a cone held 1-2 feet above a vessel of bubbling heavy syrup. When cooked (I am assuming when it floats..this require the experimental heart!), each skein is waved gently with a wooden chopstick through the syrup to give it a shimmering, silky look. The skeins are then rested on top of another vessel and allowed to drain. and refolded into smaller pillows.


With this new adventure ahead of making my own version, I look forward to dazzle up savoury and sweet dishes with this new favourite treat of mine..


~ Ingredients ~
10 Duck Egg Yolks
3 cups of sugar
2 cups of water (can be scented to the liking)
paper cone with fine tip made from folding a baking sheet

Seeking an unpretentious bowl of happiness....

With a sudden drop of 30 degrees on the thermostat, despite all the required readings at hand, my subconscious mind helplessly drifted towards the bowls after bowls of savoury broths that never failed to impress at each meal I dined in Vietnam..under the immense heat of the summer months.


To those who have traveled to this unique paradise, Nguyen Thi Thanh at 23 Hoang Sa shouldn't sound foreign.


Despite the famed drawn by Anthony Bourdain's "A Cook's Tour" that was aired a decade ago, it was to my delight that such fame is still well deserved. It is often reality that most eateries that their quality decline at steady rates from time zero when their fame was exploded, but this "Lunch Lady" resisted such temptatious fate. As simple as this bowl looks, I was surprised that with a single sip of the broth, I was transcended to a state of happiness....it was unpretentious, the perfect balance from the freshest local ingredients.


Some might not agree, but it is an experience that can hardly be discovered here in the east coast. Whether it was the ambiance, the company, or the genuine nature, I simply miss that bowl of happiness!

The Cream of the Crop Shimmering Like a Vivid Blue Sapphire....The Royal Blue Potato~!

Aside from the greens, urge your peers to add-on their blues!


All Blue potatoes are probably the most direct descendant of potatoes found almost 10,000 years ago high in the Peruvian Andes mountains, and likely smuggled into the United States from Peru in a diplomatic pouch around 1957, delivered to Sylvan Ambrose Hart who cultivated them. The blue potato is also proving a hit across Ireland since it was recently introduced to the market by a Dublin family which has been growing vegetables for 200 years.

With a genetic flaw in these gems, a mutation in the P locus of their chromosome sequence, this results in giving these humble spuds a natural plus, the production of an antioxidant anthocyanin, a flavonoid 3',5'-hydroxylase.

Apart from the potential health benefits, it is its nostalgic appearance, a deep nutty flavour, and a heavenly texture that captured my attention. As the starch swells in the vigourous heat of dry sauna, each granule explodes into a creaminess that could almost mask its heavily fat laden mashed cousins. The salty grains further enhance the natural nuttiness of these gems..


~ Simple Roasted Royal Blue Potatoes ~



serves 8

3 lb Blue Potatoes, washed and quartered, and thoroughly dried.
~1/3 cup Olive oil, enough to coat all potato wedges
3 Tbs fresh herbs, coarsely chopped (mixture of your favourites! I used rosemary and thyme)
4 clove garlic, minced

kosher salt
freshly cracked black pepper

1. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Line a roasting pan with parchment paper or aluminum foil.
2. Place the quartered potatoes on the roasting pan. Drizzle the oil and chopped herbs over the quartered potatoes, and shake the pan until the potatoes are evenly coated. Do not add the minced garlic at this stage.
3. Roast the potatoes uncovered for 20 minutes. Shake the pan at the 20-minute mark maneuver the potatoes, then roast for another 15-20 minutes.
4. Check the potatoes, and when the potatoes begin to colour, add the minced garlic, shake the pan again to evenly coat the potatoes in garlic, and roast for another 10 minutes, or until golden and crispy.

For an extra indulgence, tasty bits of crispy bacon wouldn't hurt!

Bon Appetit~!

Glam-up the traditional Rice Krispie Treat with Earl Grey for a Fetus Fiesta~!

a.k.a., a gender-friendly Baby Shower that just won the Best Title Award!


As the time runs short, I allowed my favourite flavour and aroma to guide through a mysterious venture, giving me the inspiration to dress up an ordinary treat in a savoury couture.


~ Earl Grey Rice Krispie Treat ~



3 tbs Unsalted butter
10 oz package Miniture marshmallow
6 cups Cocoa Rice Krispie
Earl Grey Ganache
- 4 Earl Grey tea bags
- 10 oz Chocolate couverture (60-71% cacao), chopped finely and place in a bowl
- 1 cup Heavy Cream
Melted white chocolate for final touches, French silver dragees optional


1. In large saucepan melt butter over low heat. Add marshmallows and stir until completely melted. Remove from heat.

2. Stir in the cereal until well coated.

3. Using buttered spatula or wax paper evenly press mixture into buttered 13 x 9 x 2-inch pan. Allow the mixture to cool.

4. Pour Earl Grey Ganache (recipe below) and spread evenly over the treat. Allow it to solidify prior cutting into desired sizes and shapes.

5. Drizzle the pieces with white chocolate.


Earl Grey Ganache:

1. In a small sauce pan, bring the heavy cream to a slow simmer.

2. Add the Earl Grey tea bags and allow them to seep in the cream for 5 minutes.

3. Remove the tea bags and bring the heavy cream back to a boil.

4. Pour the boiled cream over the chopped chocolate, allow the chocolate to melt undisturbed for 1 minute.

5. Stir the cream and chocolate mixture gently until chocolate has completely incorporated into the cream.


For further information on Earl Grey tea, please check out my other post:
"Earl Grey....from an obsession to a devotion...."


Bon Appetit~!

Delicacies for Chinese New Year Round Three - The Overloaded Taro Cake~!

This recipe is dedicated to my family, and to anyone who is as obsessed with this purple root as we are! Just make sure you do not overload with this fragrant yet zesty tasting taro, which turns the cake into a more croquet like consistency, but still mouthwatering.


For those who might be interested in reading further on this amazing root, please check out my previous post:
"Macaron de la divinité captures the essence of this mulberry purple coloured root....~ le Macaron aux Taro~
Taro flavoured macaron filled with coconut white chocolate ganache"


~ Chinese Taro Cake - 芋頭糕~

Ingredients:

- 2 lb Taro root - about 2 medium size, peeled and cut into 1/2 cubes
- 500 g plain rice flour (粘米粉) - not glutinous rice flour
- 4 long links Chinese sausages (臘腸) - cut into 1/4 inch cubes
- 200g Chinese cured bacon ((臘肉) - cut into 1/4 inch cubes
- 4 dried scallops, 3 tbs dried shrimps, 6 dried shiitake mushrooms
(place all 3 above ingredients in a bowl and soak overnight with cold water just
enough to cover all the ingredients)
- 750mL water
- 3 tbs chicken bouillon powder
- 4 tsp white pepper
- 2 tsp five spiced powder
- 3 tsp salt
- 4 tsp sugar
- a bunch of coriander - coarsely chopped


1. Squeeze out the soaking liquid from the hydrated dried scallops, dried mushrooms and shrimps, and finely chop these ingredients. Reserve soaking liquid.
2. Steam the cubed taro in a even layer for 20 minutes or until all pieces have turned slightly translucent.
3. Heat up a wok or a large frying pan over medium high heat, add in the Chinese sausages and cured bacon, stir-fry for a 5-8 minutes or until most of the oil has rendered out from the cured meats.
4. Gradually add the finely chopped mushrooms, scallops and shrimps. Keep stir frying them for about 5 minutes.
5. Stir in all the seasonings and allow them to warm in the mixture for a minute. Remove from heat.


6. In a large baking pan (ideal size would be a 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches deep, or 2 9-inch cake pan would also be fine), pour in the rice flour and gradually stir in the soaking liquid and water. Mix until completely incorporated.
7. Stir in the solid ingredients from the wok and mix thoroughly, and gently fold in the steamed taro cubes.
8. Steam the cake in a large wok with consistent yet vigourous steam for an hour and a half.


9. When it is cooked, remove from heat and sprinkle the chopped coriander on top as garnish.
10. The cake can be served immediately as the steamed version,


11. For the pan-fried version, allow the cake to cool and refrigerate overnight. Cut the cake into slices and pan-fry until golden brown and crispy on each side. Serve with XO sauce or chili sauce if preferred.


Bon Appetit~!

Celebrate a decade of absence with my grandmother's famous Chinese Daikon Cake!

I often wondered what Chinese New Year is like for visitors in Hong Kong. This festival is a time for families to reunite, not only to welcome in the new lunar year, but also to feast together with home-prepared meals. Meanwhile, as the expat population flies to places like Bali or Thailand for the extended national holiday, the trains to the rural New Territories would be overflowing, while the bar-filled Lan Kwai would be partly deserted.


To celebrate the 10-year anniversary of my absence from Hong Kong during this festivities-filled celebration, I subconsciously trickle passed the fellow patrons of a local Chinese grocer, fluidly gathered all the necessary ingredients, for the making of my favourite Chinese Daikon Cake (蘿蔔糕).

Chinese Daikon Cake or Lo Pak Gao, is my all time favorite, you can find this all year round in Dim Sum restaurants. Yet, this speciality dish, similar to the Chinese New Year cake, is one that almost no commercial versions would be in competition with ones made at home, filled with joy, love, and hours of grating, chopping, steaming, and enduring the stinging sensation as the daikon juice attacks the skin surrounds your fingers....thanks dear Granny, Mum and Dad for all the decadent daikon cakes I have devoured in the past!


~ Chinese Daikon Cake ~

Ingredients:

- 6 lb Chinese daikon - about 3 large ones
- 500 g plain rice flour (粘米粉) - not glutinous rice flour
- 4 long links Chinese sausages (臘腸) - cut into 1/4 inch cubes
- 200g Chinese cured bacon ((臘肉) - cut into 1/4 inch cubes
- 4 dried scallops, 3 tbs dried shrimps, 6 dried shiitake mushrooms
(place all 3 above ingredients in a bowl and soak overnight with cold water just
enough to cover all the ingredients)
- 2 tbs chicken bouillon powder
- 2 tsp white pepper
- 1 tsp five spiced powder
- 2 tsp salt
- 3 tsp sugar
- a bunch of coriander - coarsely chopped


1. Squeeze out the soaking liquid from the hydrated dried scallops, dried mushrooms and shrimps, and finely chop these ingredients. Reserve soaking liquid.


2. Coarsely grate the Chinese daikon and place the grated daikon in a strainer over a large bowl. Squeeze out as much of the liquid from the daikon, but reserve the liquid.


3. Heat up a wok or a large frying pan over medium high heat, add in the Chinese sausages and cured bacon, stir-fry for a 5-8 minutes or until most of the oil has rendered out from the cured meats.


4. Gradually add the finely chopped mushrooms, scallops and shrimps. Keep stir frying them for about 5 minutes.
5. Stir in all the seasonings and allow them to warm in the mixture for a minute before adding the grated daikon. Stir-fry all the ingredients for about 2 minutes and remove from heat
6. In a large baking pan (ideal size would be a 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches deep, or 2 9-inch cake pan would also be fine), pour in the rice flour and gradually stir in the reserved daikon juice and soaking liquid. Mix until smooth.
7. Stir in the solid ingredients from the wok and mix thoroughly.


8. Steam the cake in a large wok with consistent yet vigourous steam for an hour and a half.


9. When it is cooked, remove from heat and sprinkle the chopped coriander on top as garnish.
10. The cake can be served immediately as the steamed version,
11. For the pan-fried version, allow the cake to cool and refrigerate overnight. Cut the cake into slices and pan-fry until golden brown and crispy on each side. Serve with XO sauce or chili sauce if preferred.
12. It can also be transformed into the famed dish in HK XO sauce stir-fried daikon cake (XO 醬炒蘿蔔糕). Cut a portion of the cake in small cubes and stir fry with finely chopped garlic, bean sprouts, sliced red and green bell peppers, eggs, and XO sauce.

Bon Appetit~!

The Sticky-Sweet New Year Cake....it was love at first bite!

From an elaborate two-day production to the lightning-fast microwave approach, the methods of preparing Nian Gao may have changed across generations of the Chinese families, but the sticky-sweet New Year's cake is still a savory culinary project within my household, embracing my grandmother's recipe.


Nian Gao, or Chinese New Year’s cake, is sweet and sticky and represents family cohesion and rising fortune. Nian is a homonym for both sticky and year, and gao is a homonym for cake and to rise up. It is a must at Lunar New Year’s time to wish for a family that is stuck together and for good luck in the coming year. As for me, "nian" in this cake also carries one of the most memorable textural experience within my culinary memories, one that I do not ever wish to live without.

Made from glutinous rice flour (preferably the Three Elephant brand from Thailand), and a pair of dedicated hands, this light and delicate flour is kneaded together with sugar, coconut milk and water. The victorious steam creates a veil within the wok as the prized cake rises and transform. As 200 minutes slip away while the master carefully monitors the degree of the steam, the almost 4 hour process has miraculously evolved the velvety fluid batter, into a dense cake that is heavenly soft, creamy, yet carries a multitude of chewiness, an indescribable texture that surpasses any mochi in my opinion. As a bite of the newly made cake dances between my jaw, the prolonged disintegration allows a proper chemical interaction between my senses and the aroma from the coconut milk, as well as the sweetness from the flour and sugar. This texture is well ingrained in my childhood memories. The new year cake should be sticky between your finger tips, but not your razor-sharp teeth.


~ Chinese New Year Cake - Nian Gao ~

- 500g sweet glutinous rice flour (preferably the Three Elephant brand)
- 454g sugar
- 250mL coconut milk
- 150mL water
- vegetable oil - for glazing the pans


1. In a large mixing bowl, thoroughly mix the glutinous rice flour and sugar
2. Mix in the coconut milk in a slow and gradual stream. The mixture will be sticky.
3. Begin to knead and work the mixture until a dough is formed, and the consistency is uniform.
4. Slowly incorporate the water into the dough, a few tablespoons at a time, until you reach a velvety fluid batter consistency
5. Generously glaze with oil a 9 inch baking pan that is at least 4 inches tall. Pour the batter into the pan but not higher than 2/3 of the way up.
6. Place the pan in the steamer and steam for 3-4 hours, over medium heat or a setting that would ensure consistent yet vigorous steam. Make sure the water level does not fall below the bottom of the pan, or over.
7. When the cake is done, remove from the steamer and allow cooling to room temperature.

To serve, simply slice into wedges and serve in a plate. For those who prefer a soft texture, microwave for 20 seconds or steam on boiling water for 5 minutes until softened to the desired consistency.

It is a tradition in my family to pan-fried the new year cake (煎年糕), which is enveloped in a thin layer of crispy savoury egg and served to our guests. When fried, it is slightly crispy exterior complements the magnificant texture within....

Bon Appetit~!

Celebrating Japanese New Year....le Macaron de Shōgatsu!

This article is part of "The Macaron Series"
http://lafleuraucacao.blogspot.com/2009/10/in-mood-for-loveand-macaronthe-macaron.html

As we count down along with the crystal ball in NYC, January 1st is also considered by most Japanese to be one of the most important annual festivals and has been celebrated for centuries with its own unique customs. After an evening a festivities, toasts with Champagne, and feeling at ease on my day off, I decided to create macaron that celebrate Japanese New Year (正月) or Shōgatsu.


Japanese people eat a special selection of dishes during the New Year celebration called osechi-ryōri (御節料理). This consists of boiled seaweed (昆布), fish cakes (蒲鉾), mashed sweet potato with chestnut (栗きんとん), simmered burdock root (金平牛蒡), and sweetened black soybeans (黒豆). Many of these dishes are sweet, sour, or dried, so they can keep without refrigeration—the culinary traditions date to a time before households had refrigerators, when most stores closed for the holidays.

This special macaron incorporates one of the ingredients from osechi-ryōri, sweet chestnut, with 2 other signature flavours of Japan, Red Bean (赤豆) and Matcha Green Tea (抹茶).


~ le Macaron de Shōgatsu ~

Makes 20 Macarons

6 Sweet Roasted Chestnuts - cut into 1/4" cubes

1 batch of red bean flavoured macaron shells
for the Macaron Recipe, please click on this link below for the recipe for the Earl Grey Macaron:
http://lafleuraucacao.blogspot.com/2009/10/earl-grey-macaronnew-creation-for.html

* Replace the 8g of Earl Grey tea powder with 8g of Red Bean (Kochi An) powder

1 batch of Matcha Ganache
for the Matcha Ganache Recipe, please click on this link below for the recipe for the le Macaron de l'amour:
http://lafleuraucacao.blogspot.com/2009/11/macarons-that-shimmered-for-union-of.html


Assemble the le Macaron de Shōgatsu:
1. Place the ganache into a piping bag and pipe mixture onto one macaron shell.
2. Place 3-4 pieces of sweet roasted chestnut cubes into the ganache.
3. Gently press an un-piped shell onto the ganache until the ganache just reaches the rim of the macaron.
4. Dust very lightly with Matcha powder if desired.

Bon Appetit!

Giving the gluten-free grain "keen-wah" an Asian flare....Chinese Five Spice Quinoa Pilaf!

Apart from the ambiance and the company, I find that a memorable dining experience often brings a certain something unexpected. A Mediterranean sampling plate was served, as I was catching up with a friend over dinner at a local "Tavern". Apart from the usual trio of hummus (that itself was surprisingly unusual, with one carrying a green hue of edamame), I was inspired by a salad made with quinoa, a grain I love, but it has been a long while since its last escape from my pantry.


Quinoa is a relative newcomer to the American pantry. The tiny, ancient Peruvian seed, which has a mild, nutty flavor, is closer related to leafy green vegetables like spinach or beets than to a grain.


Quinoa is as versatile as rice but it has a protein content that is superior to that of most grains. Unlike wheat or rice (which are low in lysine), quinoa is a complete protein source containing a balanced set of essential amino acids for humans. Distinguished from most grain, quinoa is also gluten-free, making it an excellent alternative for individuals with gluten-sensitive enteropathy. It is a good source of dietary fiber and phosphorus and is high in magnesium and iron. Its high iron content makes quinoa a favourable ingredient to be incorporated into diets of vegetarians and vegans.

Quinoa in its natural state has a coating of saponins, a bitter substance that protects them against birds and other predators, making it unpalatable. Most quinoa sold commercially in North America has been processed to remove this coating but it is important to rinse the seeds well prior cooking.


With a cooking time of 15 minutes, plus an internally integrated cooking timer (seeds display a little white thread that curls around them when cooked), there is no reason not to replace the bland quick-cooked white rice, with this light and fluffy super "grain"!


~ Chinese Five Spice Quinoa Pilaf ~

*The fragrant yet savoury Chinese Five Spiced powder, along with sweetness from the Hoisin sauce, complement the mild bitterness of quinoa.


Serves 4-6

1 cup quinoa
3 cups water
1 tsp salt
2 tablespoons canola or grapeseed oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tsp Chinese five spiced powder
2 tbs Toasted sesame seeds
2 tbs Toasted sesame seed oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tsp sugar
1 lb Asparagus, blanched and cut into 2-inch pieces
4 tbs Chinese Hoisin sauce
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Serve with Szechuan Chili Bean Paste

1. Place the quinoa in a strainer and rinse until the water runs clear.
2. Bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the salt and the quinoa. Bring back to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer 15 minutes, or until the quinoa is tender and translucent, and each grain displays a little thread.
3. Drain and return to the pan. Cover the pan with a clean dish towel, replace the lid and allow to sit undisturbed for 10 minutes. Fluff gently with a fork.
4. Heat a large, heavy frying pan over medium heat add oils, Chinese Five Spiced Powder and sesame seeds. Add the diced onion and garlic after the five spiced powder becomes fragrant, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes.
5. Stir in the cooked quinoa, and asparagus over medium heat to heat through, several minutes.
6. Mix in the Hoisin sauce, and add salt and pepper to taste.

Bon Appetit~!

Turn the deflated toasting bubbly into a refreshing dessert....Gelée de Champagne Lychee

No matter how much you imbibe on New Year’s Eve, chances are you’ll have some already-opened bubbly still left over on the morning, or the week after.


While mimosas, bellinis and other champagne cocktails are always an option on New Year’s Day, a more healthier method can utilise the corked bubbly in creative home cooking. Here I combine one of my favourite tropical fruits to create this refreshing yet simple dessert....

*This recipe can be made into a vegetarian/vegan version with Konnayaku powder or Agar replacing gelatin.

~ Gelée de Champagne Lychee ~


1 tb gelatin = 2 cups liquid *This recipe can be made into a vegetarian/vegan version with Konnayaku powder or Agar
1 Can of Lychee in light syrup
Leftover Champagne
Sugar to taste

1. Combine the leftover champagne with the light syrup from the canned lychee, and measure out the amount of gelatin required for the corresponding volume of liquid.
2. Place the liquid in a saucepan, and sprinkle the gelatin. Allow the gelatin to bloom in the liquid at room temperature for 20 mintues.
3. Heat the champagne mixture with gelatin over medium heat. Constantly stir until all the gelatin is dissolved.
4. Stir and dissolve sugar to your taste. Remove from heat.
5. Place 2 lychee in each champagne glass, and gently pour the champagne mixture into each glass to avoid bubbles.
6. Allow it to cool to room temperature and refrigerate for 4 hours or until the jello sets.

Bon Appetit!

The Yulelog of Milano, Italy....the Crowd Pleasing Panettone and the creation of Été Trifle!

All day long, a flow of Milanese and tourists has streamed in to buy the dome-shaped, fluffy cake studded with raisins and candied citrus peel, Christmas would not be the same without star on the Italian Christmas table, the Panettone. The first signs of Christmas in Milan are the stacks of trapezoidal boxes, wrapped in blue, cream, white, gold and beige, that crowd the aisles and display windows of coffee shops, pastry shops and confectioners from early November to early January. A traditional Yuletide sweet bread, made with flour, eggs, leavening, butter, sugar, raisins and cedro (the candied rind of a large Sicilian lemon), Milan's panettone is a close cousin to Verona's star-shaped pandoro and Genoa's fennel-flavored pandolce. Unlike these, which are still primarily known locally, panettone has become, for many non-Italians, the symbol of Christmas in Italy.


Months before the panettone goes into the oven to be baked, experienced bakers begins their work in creating this richly sweet yeasted bread, which its taste lies within the secret from a natural yeast. Hop leaves are allowed to macerate and flour and water are gradually added. The mixture obtained is left to ferment for days and then more flour is added to create a dough. The last ingredient to be incorporated into the dough is the fresh mountain butter, plump natural raisins and citrus peels.

Differentiated from daily breads by their richness - and by the addition of fruits, nuts, spices or glazes as well as by shapes or decorations with symbolic references - all Christmas sweet breads are probably descended from the breads baked by ancient Romans as ritual offerings to their gods.

Many legends are associated with panettone. The best known tale links its origins to a 15th-century romance. Ughetto de la Tele, a young man of good family, fell in love with the a poor belle, the daughter of Milanese baker named Tonio. Fearing that his family would oppose the marriage, he supplied Tonio the finest eggs, flour, butter, sugar, raisins and candied peels in creating the bread that became an instant success, making Tonio rich and his daughter a suitable bride.

Despite the origin, there would be not doubts that the panettone is Milan's favorite Christmas dessert, usually eaten with zabaglione or with mascarpone. I have yet to attempt my own trial for this aggressive yet mesmerising flavoured treat from the bare ingredients, but using this luscious cake, my version of the Été Trifle was created; the sweet juicy berries and the lightness from the mascarpone crème will bring sunshine into our snow covered January.


Été Trifle - Summer Trifle
makes 8


1 cup heavy cream
2/3 cup mascarpone - soften and whipped
1/2 cup sugar
Panattone - cut into 1 inch cubes
1 pint Blueberries
2 cup Frozen black cherries
2 tbs lemon juice
1/2 cup Toasted almond slices


1. Place frozen cherries in sauce pan with 1/4 cup sugar and lemon juice. Cook over medium heat until simmer and reduced to 1/2 its volume. Remove from heat and cool completely. Refrigerate.

2. Whip heavy cream to medium peak with 1/4 cup sugar, fold into soften whipped mascarpone. Refrigerate.

3. Spoon 4 tbs of mascarpone crème mixture into each of the 8 martini glasses. Sprinkle fresh blueberries over the crème and cover the cream with panettone cubes.

4. Generously spoon chilled cherry sauce over the panettone layer. Repeat step 3 and 4 two more times.

5. Lastly, place one spoonful of mascarpone crème in the centre and garnish the trifle with a generous sprinkling of toasted almonds.

Bon Appetit!