Recipe: Vegan Delight Spring Rolls!

This recipe is dedicated to my vegetarian and vegan friends!

....and the extension of a previously published article:
http://lafleuraucacao.blogspot.com/2009/11/veganism-can-be-delightful-with-tofu_03.html

Serves 4-6

1 package of fresh Tofu Skins (cut into 8" x 8" pieces)
4 cups of shredded vegetables of your choice (Enoki mushroom, King Trumpet mushroom, and the stems of Chinese Broccoli were used)
Sugar
* For those who are not vegetarian or vegan, you can also add shredded meat

Sauce (can be used to marinate the sauteed shredded vegetables or served as a sauce):
6 tbs Lee Kum Kee Chicken Marinade - Teriyaki
1-2 tbs Lee Kum Kee Chili Bean Sauce (Toban Djan)
2 slices Ginger (1/4" thick)
4 cloves Garlic


1. Sautee each of the shredded vegetables individually in oil (grapeseed was used) in frying pan or wok on high and sprinkle with little sugar. Sautee until golden brown.
2. Set all sauteed vegetable aside in a bowl and mix well.
3. To make the sauce, sautee both garlic and ginger with a little oil on medium heat. Add the Chili Bean Sauce and sautee with garlic and ginger to release the aroma. Stir in the Chicken Marinade and remove sauce from heat.
4. For Crispy version of the Spring Rolls, add enough sauce to the sauteed vegetables to your liking. For a softer texture, the Spring Rolls can be braised in the sauce after pan frying.


5. Place the sauteed vegetables in the centre of each the Tofu Skin pieces. Fold and wrap the Tofu Skin around the sauteed vegetables to form the Spring roll. Fold the left and right sides of wrapper over filling, then lift up the wide end nearest you and tuck overtop. Roll to the other end. Secure the roll by dipping your fingers in some water and wetting the end, "pasting" it shut.


6. Pan fry Spring Rolls in a wok or a non-stick frying pan with a little oil, seal-side down first for about 1 minute on each side or till they turn light to medium golden-brown.


7. For the braising version, reheat the previously made sauce in frying pan with 4 tbs of water. When the sauce begins to simmer, add all the Spring Rolls into the pan and allow them to simmer in the sauce for minute.
8. Serve both version on steamed vegetables and/or rice.

Bon Appetit!

Veganism can be delightful with Tofu Skin!

As conscious as I am in health and nutrition, I very much enjoy the occasional helping of meat protein. But when it comes to tofu, or any of its related members, I almost have an obsession, one of my weaknesses in craving for something that is actually healthy for you!


Strolling along the aisles in the local Chinese market, I spotted the item that I have always had the urge to use it as part of my experimental creations, the "Tofu Skin", or known as "Yuba" in a Japanese dictionary of gastronomy. The name of it almost sounds distasteful, but for those who dim sum often, this should not come across as a cosmic matter, if it is not already among the items on your favourite list.


Tofu Skin a Chinese and Japanese food product made from soybeans. During the boiling of soy milk, in an open shallow pan, a film or skin composed primarily of a soy protein-lipid complex forms on the liquid surface. The films are collected and dried into yellowish sheets known as tofu skin or soy milk skin. Because it is derived directly from soy milk, it can be used as part of a lazy trick to homemade soy milk!

Carrying a rich scent from soybeans, Tofu Skins also carry a nutritional property that no other soy product does. Due to its high density, 100 grams of it consists of 14 grams of fat (mostly polyunsaturated), 50 grams of carbohydrate and over 25 grams of protein, providing all the essential amino acids. Along with other micronutrients, Tofu Skins and other soy products have gradually become important protein sources for vegetarians and vegans.

Tofu skin may be purchased in fresh or dried form, in the latter case, the tofu skin is rehydrated in water before use. Its uses in the U.S. is very much limited, but a trip to China has enlightened my knowledge on the versatility of this flavourful ingredient, from stir-frying to braising, as a textual component of a soup to the sculptural centre of a hors d'oeuvres, the possibilities are endless.



Apart from the versatility of the product itself, I was intrigued to learn that Tofu Skins can be made with the darker cousin of the pale yellow soybean, the black soybean which is often found fermented in the making of black bean and garlic sauce. Its mysteriously dark hilum is to disguise its youthful green flesh. The black tofu skin is one item that I must try during my next visit to the Mainland China.



The innocent looking yet flavourful tofu skin, is the masterpiece of the experimental yet skillful artist:

Soaked beans are cooked in boiling water.

Soaked beans are sent to the the traditional stone grinder fixed with an electric motor to break apart the cooked beans and extract the nectar from within.

The fresh soy milk is poured into specially designed shallow woks.

Temperature of the soy milk is kept at 95oC within the woks, and the temperature difference between the milk and the exposed interface with the surrounding air will promote Tofu Skin formation.


The freshly made Tofu Skin is gently released from the sides of the woks, and hanged over a wooden rod to dry

With this ingredient comes my vegan invention. Please visit my blog again as the recipe will be posted shortly!

An Autumn Ingredient for the Chilling Weather....the Chestnut Series!

The Nor'easter storm brought in the first October snow, and a harsh reminder of the chilling winter ahead. All those thoughts of black ice was wiped away by the sight of these golden luscious nuggets at the local Chinese market. The hearty fruits of the winter....

As a member of the nut family, fresh chestnut fruits have about 180-200 Kcal per 100 grams serving, much lower than its cousins like walnuts, and almonds. As with any plant product, chestnuts contain no cholesterol. They also contain very little fat, mostly unsaturated, and with its no gluten properties, it can play an important role in the diet of individual with gluten sensitivity. Chestnuts can be dried and milled into flour, which can then be used in gluten-free baked goods, and Italians often use it to make pasta and gnocchi.


The French and Italian brought this fruit to the next level by candying them in a vanilla infused syrup, and the exquisite marrons glacés was born in the 16th century. There is almost nothing more heavenly than a marrons glacés with sips of espresso. They are also the basis for many desserts, among which the famous “crème de marrons”, itself a staple ingredients for more desserts such as the mont-blanc, ice-creams, cakes, sweet sauce or garnish for other desserts.



Even with these delicious treat that would satisfy any gourmet, it is hardly a match against the sensory explosion caused by the fragrance of the Sweet Roasted Chestnuts 糖炒栗子 on the streets of Hong Kong.



This Chinese street food was dated back in the 10th century, and poems were written to dedicate its glorious caramelised colour and a scent that sends those with a devotion to the heavens.

堆盤栗子炒深黃，客到長談索酒嘗，寒火三更燈半灺，門前高喊『灌糖香』

Recipe for the classic Hong Kong dessert: "Willow Branches of Aquarius - 楊枝甘露" Sweet soup with Mangoes, Pomeloes, Sago and Coconut Milk....

A follow-up on a related post:
http://lafleuraucacao.blogspot.com/2009/10/memories-of-chinese-mid-autumn.html

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:
6 Fresh Mangoes - remove skin and stone, or approximate 6 cups of thawed frozen mangoes
150g Sago
1/2 Pomelo - remove rind, membrane and seeds
1 can Coconut Milk (can be substituted with low-fat version)
50mL half and half (optional if conscious of fat intake)
200g Rock Sugar (can be adjusted to your taste, and the sweetness of mangoes)

Directions:
1. Bring rock sugar and water to a boil
2. Reduce heat to medium and add sago. Stir occasionally and cook the sago until they turn half transparent (each sago should still have a bit of white at the core)
3. Add coconut milk to the sago mixture and remove it from heat and allow it to cool to room temperature
4. Puree half of the mangoes, and cut the remaining into bite size pieces
5. Shred the flesh of pomelo by hand into the width of a chopstick
6. Add mango puree, mango chunks, and pomelo pieces into the sago coconut milk mixture
7. Chill the sweet soup prior serving.

Bon Appetit!

Memories of Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival....The Forgotten Treat!

Spending Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival abroad often made me take trips down the memory lane. Here in North America, there would be no competitions against the legendary mooncake being the centre of attention. Not that I would object to such notion, as I consider the mooncake (white lotus seed paste with one single yolk) to be among my favourites in the repertoire of Chinese pastries. Just imagine cutting a mooncake into quarters, then eighths, then becoming mesmerised while watching that moist, slight salty duck egg yolk glisten the pale white lotus seed paste........


It is easy to get side-tracked by such delectable treat. I consider myself very lucky to be pampered by my parents upon receiving them through mail, but what I miss the most about spending this festival in Hong Kong, apart from spending quality time with my family, gazing at the moon with sand between our toes, digging sand dunes and fill them with candles and glow sticks, is this fruit, the Chinese pomelo, the 沙田柚 that I miss!




The pomelo variety that is available in the U.S. is called the Chandler. It has a very smooth green skin when compared to other varieties, and it has a pink, but often slightly dried flesh. Growing up devouring the Chinese variety, it is difficult not to compare the two. From the colour of the skin to its rough texture, from the shape of the fruit to the curve of its dimple, Chinese has almost a philosophical demeanor towards this fruit.


This pomelo species is originated in the Guangxi Province of China, created by the grafting method back in the Ming Dynasty. Very much to the liking of the Chinese Emperor Qing Long, it was then named as one of the Tribute fruits.

The love of this fruit did not end with the Emperor, food enthusiasts have tried many ways to incorporate these juicy nuggets into both the sweet and the savoury. The most famed dish would have to be this sweet dessert soup that was developed in Hong Kong back in 1984, the 楊枝甘露 (sweet soup with mangoes, pomelos, sago and coconut milk). The magical harmony between the sweetness of mangoes, the slight tart and bitterness of pomelos, the texture and body of the sago, and the creaminess of coconut milk, this dish has earned its name as one of the Buddha's weapon, the Willow Branches of Aquarius.


If you only consider the meat of this delicious fruit as the edible part, then I'm afraid you are mistaken. The spongy yet bitter rind, with more than a little tender loving care, and a healthy dose of dried prawn roe, can be turned into a dish that fits for a banquet. From the flaming of the skin to the removal of its bitterness with multiple soaking, followed by the prolong braising in the best flavour soup, it takes about 72 hours and a pair of dedicated professional hands to complete this master Cantonese dish, 蝦子柚皮.

dans l'amour de macaron....une magnifique expérience à L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

There is no need to explain further on our love with the French macaron....there are no pâtisseries like the macaron, a visual and sensual enlightenment in a minute elegant package. A macaron is a traditional French pastry from Nancy, a commune of the Meurthe et Moselle département, in northeastern France. Dating back to the 18th century, the macaron is made of egg whites, almond powder, icing sugar and sugar. This sweet pastry came out of the French courts' baker's oven as round meringue-like domes with a flat base.

In the early 1930 the tearoom and pastry-shop Ladurée in Paris started selling the new creation of Pierre Desfontaines, grandson of Louis Ernest Ladurée: two traditional dome halves sandwiched with a sweet filling between: the ganache. This resulted in giving the new macaron a larger size, the possibility of flavored garnishes, and a newfound moistness that came from the garnish. Whereas the traditional macaron was sweet and dry and crunchy, the new macaron had the added attraction of being delicately crunchy on the outside, while moist, chewy, and flavourful on the inside.


Apart from the most well known Paris pâtisseries Pierre Hermé and Ladurée for their French macaron creations, it was the jewels at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Hong Kong, that turned my love into a devotion. Unlike the macarons at Pierre Hermé and Ladurée that come in grandes variétés of seasonal flavours, and are not shy to display their vibrant characters, there are only 8 flavours featured at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, each with a soft pastel colour that complements the delicate texture of this prized French pâtisserie. The sweetness was much milder than those I savoured in Paris, allowing each of the signature flavours plus the backnote of almond to trigger a more complete and intense chemoreception.


My affair with L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon was not meant to end with just their macarons, when my gaze was redirected towards a pâtisserie featuring no other teas but The Earl Grey....I was sold simply from its stunning presentation - en forme de dôme de mousse gently kissed by a thin dust of sprayed chocolat blanc. It was unimaginable that its taste could be more phenomenal....it was the perfect representation of the marriage between Earl Grey and citron, and tasting it on the rocking Star Ferry ride between Central and TST just gave the extra edge. The flavourful mousse was expertly formed to create a fluid mouth feel, and to heighten the textual experience, the skillful chef added petites pastilles de chocolat croustillant.


Leaving this treasure chest with une boîte de macaron, I knew it was enough to bring forth the jealousy from my strange companion on a dreadfully long flight.

All BLACKED Out! The current food trends on anything black....

It is not entirely a strange concept to consume foods that are mysteriously "black". In foreign cuisines, we have pastas and sauces elegantly "contaminated" with squid ink, and the East, black sesame made its way through the shadow with its mesmerising aroma. Black soybeans came crashing into the healthy eating market with the features of being lower in carbs and higher in fibre, compared to its fair cousin.


Just when you were expecting that our adventurous palates have been saturated with the culinary arts of darkness, here comes charcoal walking through the back entrance....Yes, charcoal indeed! I am not referring to the carcinogenic derivatives on meats we generate from our most honourable barbeques, but a special variant of charcoal that has undergone a manipulative process of wood or bamboo, where heat no less than 1000 degrees celcius is applied for a pr0longed period of time.


This type of charcoal, Binchō-tan (備長炭) - the wood version or 竹炭 - the bamboo version, is certainly no stranger, but a highly valued multi-tasking gem among the residents of Japan. The origin of Binchō-tan dates back to the Genroku period of the Edo era (1688-1703) in Japan, when a businessman perfected the Chinese art of making charcoal that was introduced in the early 9th century. Binchō-tan is priced for its matching strength to steel, which is achieved through physical activation of the carbon in specially selected high density woods. This activation creates a type of charcoal that conducts electricity (therefore it has the ability to neutralise electromagnetic waves), with an ultimate power of filtration and humidity regulation. These qualities of Binchō-tan appears to be more suitable for household settings, and to the innovative Japanese, it wasn't surprising that they have incorporated Binchō-tan in the culinary setting. Rice becomes more flavourful with improved texture when cooked with Binchō-tan, due to the filtration power of the charcoal, and the leeching of microminerals from the wood, minerals that becomes available only after the activation process.


Don't be mistaken....cooking rice with Binchō-tan alone will not turn your rice black! However, with the constant expansion of the market for healthy eating, and the curiosity of Japanese consumers reaching the stratosphere, the ground version of this black mass has made its entrance to the culinary repetoire (the bamboo version is used for making "edible" ground charcoal). The Japanese believes that the filtration power of charcoal would translate when ingested, and often seen incorporated into flour for bread and pâtisserie items. This trend has infiltrated the neighbouring cities like Hong Kong and Taipei; Hong Kong now has a restaurant featuring sofisticated "charred" dishes!


Studies conducted in Japan have shown that consuming edible charcoal will enhance gastrointestinal mobility, digestion, and the excretion of toxic substances, but the Taiwanese found no convincing evidence to support these claims. What's my take on all these? It is an item I am not ready to incorporate into my daily diet. The porous nature of the charcoal would in theory have the ability to absorb toxic substances within our GI, but this absorption would unlikely be selective. It can interfere with the absorption of certain essential nutrients from our diet, which could lead to nutrient deficiencies. Similar to nutrient supplements, we should take caution with new "ingredients" where the effects of long term intake have not been studied. Despite the doubts, tastings were inevitable with my curiosity. The subtle yet complex bitterness of the charcoal added to the depth of flavours in sweet cakes....the best of all, the charcoal does not stain your tongue! A Sweet Deal indeed!

Recipe: Pineapple Bun - 菠蘿包

Makes 30-35 buns


Ingredients:

Sweet Crust -
500g Pastry Flour
100g Sweet Butter - room temperature
125g Lard - room temperature
400g Caster Sugar
8g Baking Soda
8g Baking Powder
50g Evapourated milk
50g Eggs - lightly beaten
1 small pinch Ammonia Bicarbonate - needed to generate the signature checkered top that resembles the epicarp of a pineapple


Chinese Style Bread Dough -
1000g Bread Flour
240g Caster Sugar
150g Eggs - lightly beaten
80g Butter - room temperature
40g Evapourated Milk
10g Salt
18g Active Dry Yeast
350g Water
50g Lukewarm Water - 37 oC

Egg Wash - 1 egg + equal amount of water


Instructions:

Sweet Crust -
1. Using an electric mixer, slowly incorporate sugar, butter, lard and evapourated milk
2. Mix the baking powder, soda, Ammonia Bicarbonate and eggs into the butter mixture
3. Gently fold the pastry flour into the butter mixture
4. Allow the mixture to sit in the refrigerator overnight prior use


Bread -
1. Dissolve 1 tsp of sugar and yeast with 50g of water at 37 oC, allow it to stand for 5 minutes
2. Dissolve the remaining sugar in 350g water
3. Add eggs, evapourated milk, yeast mixture, flour and salt and into 2, knead with hand until all ingredients come together to form a rough dough
4. Gradually add butter into the dough, one tbs at a time, knead until incorporated before adding the next tbs of butter
5. When all the butter has been added, continue kneading the dough until it becomes a soft and shiny spherical mass, about 10 minutes
6. Transfer dough into a buttered mixing bowl that is at least double the size of your dough, cover with damp cloth and allow the dough to raise in a warm area for 1 hour or until doubled in size
7. After the first proof, use your fist to punch the dough to release the carbon dioxide produced by the yeast
8. Knead the dough briefly to reform a rough spherical shape. Divide dough into 30-35 pieces
9. On a floured surface, form each of the pieces into balls by pressing the dough with the palm of the hand and roll in a circular motion
10. Transfer dough balls onto baking sheets, allow at least 2" gaps between doughs. Cover with damp cloth and allow the allow the doughs to proof for an hour or until doubled in size


Assembly and Baking -
1. Preheat your oven to 190 oC
2. Remove the sweet crust mixture from the refrigerator and divide the mixture into 30-35 pieces
3. Roll each of the pieces into circular discs
4. After the bread doughs have completed the second proof, press down each dough gently and lightly brush top surfaces with egg wash
5. Cover each dough with a disc of sweet crust. Brush the surface of discs with egg wash and allow them to stand for 5 minutes. Apply the second layer of egg wash
6. Bake at 190 oC for 10 minutes


Bon Appetit!

A "Little" Taste from the Chinese Boulangerie "麵包店" - Flavour Profile: le Pain au four....

Pains or "麵包" from Chinese Boulangerie are well integrated with my cytoplasm; they are the "official" after school snacks for primary school kids, the best mates with your 15:15 coffee, and as for me, it is a love affair from the beginning, one that most likely to last a life time....

It is almost upsetting to see that there is barely any recognition within communities here, apart from those heavy interlaced with Asian influences. Chinese Boulangerie are mostly secluded within Chinese neighbourhoods i.e. Chinatowns in the US, a place for loud Chinese speaking customers to "relax" (the word relax here might seem misused as the constant interception of noisy conversations would suggest anything but place desired for seeking a restful time!). For most with their products well hidden behind counter like gems concealed within a treasure chest, the experience of visiting one could be intimating for foreigners. Despite all the gritty surface, real treasures could be savoured if you are willing to take a dip into this unfamiliar territory!


When I mentioned Pain from Chinese Boulangeries, they are usually the savoury or sweet buns that have emerged from the oven. In traditional Chinese cuisines, their version of buns and sponges are usually blossomed inside steamers; convention ovens are not their gadgets of choice. The foreign occupation of Hong Kong was undoubtedly followed by the demand of foreign cuisines. Baked bread was ranked highly among other items on their list, as it was a necessary item to break their fast. This trend opened up a line of job opportunities for the locals whom were living through poverty and hardship; it also became a possibility for those whom were keen on experiments on new creations that suited the general public.


I have no doubt that Hong Kong folks would be bugged if this introduction did not begin with the Pineapple Bun "菠蘿包", a misleading name for a fabulous creation, as you would not be able to find it on its ingredients list. It is a sweet treat that is no simpler than a fluffy bun with a crispy sweet overcoat.

So why all the buzz? Apart from being simply delicious, it is a signature icon that represents Hong Kong, both its history and character. It is believed that with the lack of resources during post-war periods, and the preference of locals for sweets, left over breads were topped with a pastry made of a dough similar to that used to make Chinese sugar cookies, which consists of sugar, eggs, flour and lard. The crusty sweetness complements the embraced bread that is soft and slightly sweetened. Lard is the key for the dimensions of texture; the sweet crust should be slightly crispy and flaky on the exterior, yet moist and tender at where it meets the bread component.


To up the caloric metre further, this steaming hot bun can be turned into an over-the-top treat with the insertion of an icy cold slab of savoury butter - a creation named Buttered Pineapple Bun "菠蘿油" that is still popular among many and often seen savoured at local Hong Kong style cafes "茶餐廳" and street stalls "大牌檔" (sadly....these true street food stalls are almost extinct in Hong Kong). This treat is certainly not for the faint of heart and absolutely not recommended as an everyday (or should I say every-month) treat. However, this delicate contrast between hot and cold, salty and sweet, crispy and tender, it is a perfect example of heavenly taste with a small package.


To keep up with the trend of fusion cuisines, numerous creations were born with the combination of either savoury or sweet filled centres - custard and Chinese barbeque pork are the favourites among the residents. The most memorable one for me would be the Gam Tou Sou "金桃酥", a creation by a century-old Boulangerie situated in Macau, called Pastelaria Fong Kei "晃記餅家". It is a divine marriage of the Pineapple Bun Crust and the Chinese Wife Cake (a traditional Chinese pastry made with winter melon and almond paste, which gives it the mochi texture).


So why call it the Pineapple Bun? The name originated in 1960s, from the fact that its sugary top crust is cooked to a golden-brown color, and because its checkered top resembles the epicarp of a pineapple. In 2005, "Pineapple Bun" was nominated as a potential typhoon name but was rejected. The director of the Hong Kong Observatory, Lam Chiu Ying, as one of the judges for the naming process, commented: "If we say XX country is being ravaged by a Pineapple Bun, that would be too hilarious."!

Reflection: Our repertoire of food and ingredients....

It is never a difficult task to begin a microscopic analysis on recent conversations with friends while you are ill in bed =P

This conversation began on pictures of the spiny crustaceans I sampled during my trip to Hokkaido, Japan....

The topic: our willingness to expand of our repertoire of food and ingredients

The panel of speakers: 2 Asian foodie vs 2 American foodies

The verdict....wouldn't be that difficult to guess....

As a person whom is privileged to grow up in a place with a history can be shared through its cuisines, a culture embraces an eating philosophy that all moving creatures with their backs facing the Sun can be consumed, and a culinary belief where the distinction of textures between the various cuts within a slab of beef brisket should be cherished; it was difficult at first for me to understand how one would deliberately restrict their knowledge in ingredients....ie shrimps only come headless and edible chicken parts only consist of muscles. My fascination on foreign and odd looking bites, could be one's nightmare.


As I began unfolding my "fresh" sashimi experience, me peeling the flesh of a Pudan Shrimp (ボタン海老 - 牡丹虾) off its skeleton when it was still very much alive, my friend from the other side of the panel simply looked horrified.

As I began to dissect this conversation, I came to realise, culinary experience for some of us including myself, is something that we thrive to gain. There is nothing more thrilling than seeing the unfamiliar and the strange. It is almost like an addiction, an sensory experience that would give us cognitive pleasure.

However, if this sensory exposure or imagination of a foreign food could yield an experience so alarming and fearful, the gustation of flavour would simply be overwhelmed and most likely be affected in a negative aspect. If that is the case, why are we still criticising those for not being adventurous in culinary experience?

I too do have intense struggles when faced with certain types of food. My most recent experience would have to be the Pork Lung Soup I savoured during my trip to Hong Kong. Organ meats are definitely a challenge for me, but as Mr. Choi Lan (蔡瀾先生 - a famous food critic in Asia, and someone I very much admire) said, you must let down your mental guards when it comes to food; you have to taste it and taste it again before you presume your likings, and then you will be able to open yourself to all that this world has to offer.

And my verdict on the soup? It was honestly the most unimaginable experience. The flavour was delicate yet complex. The 5 tastes were perfectly balanced, and the combination of pork and Chinese almonds brought out the natural umami from all the ingredients. The lung pieces themselves matched very closely with sweetbreads in its texture, minus the intensity of game flavour. Délicieux!

What's your insight on this? I will leave here another picture of a dish I often dream of....