For the Love of Figs....

As I stroll along the local farmer's market and mingle with fellow patrons, I have set it as my mission to absorb the diversity in colours and textures of various produce prior the approach of Thanksgiving, which marks the end of the 2009 farmer's market season.


As my eyes glaze over the glorious gems of heirloom tomatoes, my mind began to mesmerise the rich scent and flavour of black mission figs....yes, Figs indeed. The magical union between these two "fruits" is the result of the most refreshing salad for your sensory palate on a Sunday afternoon....

The fig could be considered the perfect fruit, except that it's not a fruit at all, but rather a "false fruit," or syncomium. Within the globe of the "fruit" are little clusters of flowers that look similar to threads.


The edible fig is one of the first plants that were cultivated by humans. Nine subfossil figs of a parthenocarpic type dating to about 9400–9200 BC were found in the early Neolithic village Gilgal I (in the Jordan Valley, 13 km north of Jericho). The find predates the domestication of wheat, barley, and legumes, and may thus be the first known instance of agriculture. It is proposed that they may have been planted and cultivated intentionally, one thousand years before the next crops were domesticated. The ficus carica, which produces the fig, is just one of more than 800 species, including trees, shrubs, and vines, within the ficus genus.


Figs can be eaten fresh or dried, and used in jam-making. Most commercial production is in dried or otherwise processed forms, since the ripe fruit does not transport well, and once picked does not keep well.

~ These jams from France are among my favourites! ~

Apart from its deliciousness, figs are also an excellent snack packaged with health benefits. Figs are one of the highest plant sources of calcium, and has more fibre, both soluble and insoluble, than any other fruits, which is excellent for cardiovascular health. According to USDA data for the Mission variety, dried figs are richest in fiber, copper, manganese, magnesium, potassium, calcium, and vitamin K, relative to human needs. They have smaller amounts of many other nutrients. Figs have a laxative effect and contain many antioxidants. They are good source of flavonoids and polyphenols. In one study, a 40-gram portion of dried figs (two medium size figs) produced a significant increase in plasma antioxidant capacity.

Though my favourite variety is the Black Mission, there are also others available in the U.S. market:


~ Calimyrna, Kadota, Turkish, Black Mission ~

Calimyrna:
Calimyrna figs ripen to a purpleish blue sometime between October and November. Less sweet and moist than mission. These figs, whose season begins in August, are named for its variety, the California smyrna.

Kadota (Fresh):
Kadota figs, also known as dottato, can be green or white. They have few seeds and can be used for many purposes. They have a wonderful flavour, but a shorter season that ends in late September or early October.

Brown Turkey (Fresh):
These dark brown figs are one of the most abundant varieties in the United States. Their flesh is pinkish amber, and they are sweet, with a juicy pulp. They are available from May through October/November.

Turkish (Dried):
Original smyrna cultivar, they are large, sweet, and light colored.
Turkish figs are primarily used for drying; their season is August to September.

Black Mission (Fresh and Dried):



Black Mission figs have a blackish-purple skin with pinkish flesh. They are the most common and popular variety in the U.S. Introduced to California in 1769 when the San Diego Mission was established, these figs, also known as franciscana, are good for drying. Their season is July to September or October.

Conadria (Dried):
Conadria's season is August through September. They are yellow-green with thin skin and white to red flesh. They are good for eating fresh or making into preserves.

Having said all that, lets FIG out!

Recipe: Israeli Couscous Infused with Chanterelles....

A follow-up of a related post:
http://lafleuraucacao.blogspot.com/2008/09/affair-with-chanterelles.html

~ Israeli Couscous Infused with Chanterelles.... ~

by Blanche IP

Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 ¼ cups Israeli couscous*
1 ½ cups water or chicken broth
2 tbs unsalted butter
6 ounces Golden Chanterelles or other types of mushrooms
3 tbs herb infused extra virgin olive oil**
½ lb boneless chicken thighs – with or without skin, cut into bite size pieces
2 tbs soy sauce
1 ts sugar
1 tbs rice wine (optional)
1 ½ cup shelled edamame beans – frozen***

Salt and pepper to taste
Grated Pecorino Romano cheese to serve (optional)

Instructions:

1. Marinate chicken thigh pieces in soy sauce, sugar and rice wine for 30 mins.

2. Clean chanterelles by lightly wiping them with a damp paper towel. Hand tear chanterelles into bite size pieces.

3. In an iron skillet or pan, dry sauté chanterelle without oil in high heat until the mushrooms begin to brown lightly and sweat. Set them aside in a bowl.

4. In the same skillet over high heat, add 1 tbs of butter with 1 tbs herb infused olive oil. Sauté the chicken pieces until brown on all sides and fully cooked (if skin is left on, sauté skin side down first – will keep chicken more juicy and flavourful). Remove from skillet and set pieces aside in a bowl. Keep the skillet un-washed as the brown bits aka ‘fond’ will be one of the flavouring agents for the dish.

5. In a 2 quart pot over high heat, add remaining butter and toast the Israeli couscous for 5 minutes. Add the water or broth and stir. Cover pan with lid until the content comes to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and allow it to simmer for 30-40 mins or until al-dente with pot partly covered. Stir occasionally.

6. Place edamame in a microwave-safe bowl and heat until steaming. Add them along with chicken pieces and remaining herb infused olive oil into pot with cooked couscous. Stir gently, and add salt and pepper to taste.

7. Heat the skillet with fond over high heat. Gently fold chanterelles into the couscous and transfer mixture into the hot skillet. Allow the mixture to stand in hot skillet for 5 minutes before serving.

8. Present it with sprig of rosemary or thyme, and serve with grated Pecorino Romano cheese and a lightly dressed arugula salad....

* If you have a Trader Joes near by, their Harvest Grains Blend is an excellent substitution. It is a mixture of Israeli couscous, orzo, baby garbanzo beans and red quinoa. This savoury deliciousness can be cooked in 15 minutes.

** My Herb Infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil consists of garlic (finely chopped and sauté in oil till brown and crisp), mixture of dried herbs (any kind to your liking), and lots of chopped sun-dried tomato. The herb mixture is allowed to infuse in extra virgin olive oil for at least 2 weeks prior use. Both the oil and the herb mixture were used in this recipe.

*** For the best results, package of frozen salted edamame pod
s should be used. The package should first be defrosted and pods would then be shelled to retrieve the plump edamame beans within.

....and of course, nothing gets better than a meal that has a bittersweet ending....though my dear friend and I decided to begin with one....an excellent Canadian Vidal ice wine and crème brûlée....

....

Mambo Jambo....MAMONCILLO! A little tangy taste from the tropics....

Haymarket has done it again....discovered another species of fruit, foreign to most, but friends to Central and South Americans....introducing the Mamoncillo....


I was not intrigue by them at first, since they have a strong resemblance to the green olive *something I have yet to learn to appreciate after many trials....which included the dirty martini of course....heh....but after having seen them in 2 consecutive visits to Haymarket, my reservation was overrun by my curiosity. I observed and picked the worker whom appeared to be most approachable....from my shopping experience at Haymarket, sometimes that's a necessity for a successful inquiry =P


And indeed, it was a success! I was granted a brief description and a public demonstration on how to savour this treat. With the free demo, he earned his business....half pound of it....and without hesitation, I withdrew a single emerald gem from my bag. The feeling of its skin on mine was oddly familiar. It was very much like a Longan....a fruit from Southeast Asia....only softer and more waxy. My instinct was to peel the mamoncillo like a longan (Southeast Asians out there should know what I mean), and the creamy orange plump flesh slipped out without an effort. I popped it into my mouth and attempted to take a bite....it didn't take long for me to realise that I was supposed to suck the pulp that encased the stone of the fruit. Don't let the fullness of the flesh fool you....the stone itself practically occupied ~95% of the volume within its shell, and the slippery pulp was a challenge for my tongue to undress....but I was not easy discourage, as it was simply delicious! The tangy, juicy membrane was refreshing, followed by the intense sweetness with floral accent, and unlike other fruits, it had a long finishing. Although this fruit is genetically related to the lychee, it took me a while before I can brainstorm a food that masks the textual experience....it was yet another fruit from Asia, 黄皮, or the Clausena lansium.


Enough said, I will leave you with an interesting fact. According to Caribbean folk wisdom (especially in Jamaica), girls learn the art of kissing by eating the sweet flesh of this fruit, also it is said that if a girl finds two seeds then they'll have twins!

An affair with Chanterelles....

I often head to the farmer's market at Copley Square here in Boston, and with a rare find of chanterelles, what is more delightful than experiment with it, and share your fruit of labour with your friends....or should I put it, having your dear friends to be your guinea pigs for your experimental treats....teehee....


I was never a great fan of traditional couscous....the crumbly texture like sable, and the miniscule granules are a challenge for my palate. Couscous or kuskus is a pasta from the Maghreb of Berber origin. It consists of spherical granules made by rolling and shaping moistened semolina wheat and then coating them with finely ground wheat flour. The finished grains are about 1 mm in diameter before cooking. Traditional couscous requires considerable preparation time and is usually steamed. In many places, a more processed quick-cook couscous is available and is particularly valued for its short preparation time.



Roaming around Boston, I have found a few Middle-Eastern markets hidden within Haymarket. It was not difficult to loiter within one of them, the experience was an eye opener....the display of numerous cuts of meats, the delectable collection fruit spreads *figs....hmmm...., and isle after isle of various grains. Out of fields and fields of yellow cousin, I came across this couscous....white like pearls, and in the size of white peppercorns....it was my first introduction to the Israeli Couscous. With my curiosity in food and ingredients, it was not possible for me not to trade for a bag with my pocket change.

Israeli Couscous, also known as maftoul or pearl couscous, is made of hard wheat instead of semolina in traditional couscous, which gives it the white pearlish colour. Israeli couscous is a version of North African Berkukes, introduced by immigrants from various parts of North Africa in the early 1950s, and Levantine Maghrebiyya (from the Maghreb) common in Palestine, Jordan, Syria and Lebanon. Israeli couscous was meant to provide a rice substitute for those immigrants from eastern Arab countries and from Persia, where rice was the staple grain. Unlike North African couscous, it is not semolina at all, but rather a toasted mixture of bulgur and flour.

In order to take in the natural flavour and texture of the couscous, I lightly toasted the Israeli couscous in a saucier with a little bit of olive oil, then boiled it with water and a generous pinch of NaCl. The delicate scent and flavour of wheat, and the al dente texture, make Israeli couscous an excellent palette for pairing with other ingredients. The couscous came out just slightly on the sticky side, due to the leaching of starch from the grain in the process of cooking, maybe a little herb infused oil would loosen it up, as well as a vehicle for adding flavour.

And with a handful of chanterelles ready, I couldn't wait to test out ideas within my imaginations....still working on putting the recipe in writing, so stay tune....

The Puff that Rises....

....yet when it reached Boston, Mass, it has fallen flat.


After chatting with my friend Jen, whom has recently visited Beard Papa's "ビアード・パパのパ" in SF *feeling envious*, and written an entry on her blog, here is my tribute to this amazing store....and for those whom enjoy the puff as much as I do....


I stumbled upon the late Boston location when I first visited Boston for the interview of my current job....well....I spent 2 hours for the interview, and 2 days visiting the city. As a person whom spent her high school years in Hong Kong, Beard Papa's wasn't a nouveau icon....but with the sign in sight, rushing towards the custard clouds was the natural reflex. What attracted me more was the intense aroma of fresh vanilla bean... one of the staff started extract the minuscule seeds from the second most expensive spices after saffron. My cooking instincts then attracted me to a plastic cup filled with the spent pods used for display. With a brief hesitation, I spoke with the manager, and the soon after, the cup of spent pods ended up in my bag.


As Alton Brown puts it....nothing is worth more than a cooking tool that can multi-task. I would say the same for ingredients. The spent vanilla pods would be a waste if they do not end up in your jar of castor sugar, or a good bottle of potato vodka!

It was sad to see Beard Papa's disappear from the Faneuil Hall....I always ponder from the thought of whether there is just a lack of demand for great pastisseries in Boston. It was determined not to miss out on them when I headed back to Hong Kong this past June....and I was surprised by the diversity this company has incorporated to their stores....stay tune for my new Asian experience of the "ビアード・パパのパ"!


Jen's blog: http://rhymeswithhungry.blogspot.com/

Summer Flavours of Boston....

As a recent resident of Boston whom lacks the passion for this city, the farmer's market at Copley Square is a great escape, twice a week during the summer months.


Though with the limited selections, and prices that can easily top off similar stalls in the Big Apple....in the presence of fresh produce in pristine colours, and the fragrance from the woods that recalls your memories of summer wilderness, it is hardly a challenge for ones' mindset to transform from tiredness towards adventurous, looking forward to the challenge to the upcoming dinner.


The excitement doesn't end there when you have the pleasure to stumble across a store while its proud owner is presenting the rare variety of the mycorrhzial edible fungus....picked from the wild....the Golden Chantrelles, or the Cantharellus.


The chanterelle exists by forming symbiotic associations with plants, thus making it very challenging to cultivate. C. cibarius is the best known species of this genus is the Golden chanterelle, which is orange or yellow, meaty and funnel-shaped. On the lower surface, underneath the smooth cap, it has gill-like ridges that run almost all the way down its stem. It has a fruity smell and a mildly peppery taste, and the gill-like ridges helps with the release of its intense flavour into your dish....though, they also make water a lethal weapon for leaching out the flavours and aromas from the chanterelles. With such delicate structure, this mushroom is best cleaned with a slight moist paper towel, using it to gently dust away the soil.


I couldn't help but admire them closely with my camera....with my mind drifting off thinking of the type of adventures these jewels are destined to head....