A "Little" Taste from the Chinese Boulangerie "麵包店" - Flavour Profile: le Pain au four....

Pains or "麵包" from Chinese Boulangerie are well integrated with my cytoplasm; they are the "official" after school snacks for primary school kids, the best mates with your 15:15 coffee, and as for me, it is a love affair from the beginning, one that most likely to last a life time....

It is almost upsetting to see that there is barely any recognition within communities here, apart from those heavy interlaced with Asian influences. Chinese Boulangerie are mostly secluded within Chinese neighbourhoods i.e. Chinatowns in the US, a place for loud Chinese speaking customers to "relax" (the word relax here might seem misused as the constant interception of noisy conversations would suggest anything but place desired for seeking a restful time!). For most with their products well hidden behind counter like gems concealed within a treasure chest, the experience of visiting one could be intimating for foreigners. Despite all the gritty surface, real treasures could be savoured if you are willing to take a dip into this unfamiliar territory!


When I mentioned Pain from Chinese Boulangeries, they are usually the savoury or sweet buns that have emerged from the oven. In traditional Chinese cuisines, their version of buns and sponges are usually blossomed inside steamers; convention ovens are not their gadgets of choice. The foreign occupation of Hong Kong was undoubtedly followed by the demand of foreign cuisines. Baked bread was ranked highly among other items on their list, as it was a necessary item to break their fast. This trend opened up a line of job opportunities for the locals whom were living through poverty and hardship; it also became a possibility for those whom were keen on experiments on new creations that suited the general public.


I have no doubt that Hong Kong folks would be bugged if this introduction did not begin with the Pineapple Bun "菠蘿包", a misleading name for a fabulous creation, as you would not be able to find it on its ingredients list. It is a sweet treat that is no simpler than a fluffy bun with a crispy sweet overcoat.

So why all the buzz? Apart from being simply delicious, it is a signature icon that represents Hong Kong, both its history and character. It is believed that with the lack of resources during post-war periods, and the preference of locals for sweets, left over breads were topped with a pastry made of a dough similar to that used to make Chinese sugar cookies, which consists of sugar, eggs, flour and lard. The crusty sweetness complements the embraced bread that is soft and slightly sweetened. Lard is the key for the dimensions of texture; the sweet crust should be slightly crispy and flaky on the exterior, yet moist and tender at where it meets the bread component.


To up the caloric metre further, this steaming hot bun can be turned into an over-the-top treat with the insertion of an icy cold slab of savoury butter - a creation named Buttered Pineapple Bun "菠蘿油" that is still popular among many and often seen savoured at local Hong Kong style cafes "茶餐廳" and street stalls "大牌檔" (sadly....these true street food stalls are almost extinct in Hong Kong). This treat is certainly not for the faint of heart and absolutely not recommended as an everyday (or should I say every-month) treat. However, this delicate contrast between hot and cold, salty and sweet, crispy and tender, it is a perfect example of heavenly taste with a small package.


To keep up with the trend of fusion cuisines, numerous creations were born with the combination of either savoury or sweet filled centres - custard and Chinese barbeque pork are the favourites among the residents. The most memorable one for me would be the Gam Tou Sou "金桃酥", a creation by a century-old Boulangerie situated in Macau, called Pastelaria Fong Kei "晃記餅家". It is a divine marriage of the Pineapple Bun Crust and the Chinese Wife Cake (a traditional Chinese pastry made with winter melon and almond paste, which gives it the mochi texture).


So why call it the Pineapple Bun? The name originated in 1960s, from the fact that its sugary top crust is cooked to a golden-brown color, and because its checkered top resembles the epicarp of a pineapple. In 2005, "Pineapple Bun" was nominated as a potential typhoon name but was rejected. The director of the Hong Kong Observatory, Lam Chiu Ying, as one of the judges for the naming process, commented: "If we say XX country is being ravaged by a Pineapple Bun, that would be too hilarious."!

Reflection: Our repertoire of food and ingredients....

It is never a difficult task to begin a microscopic analysis on recent conversations with friends while you are ill in bed =P

This conversation began on pictures of the spiny crustaceans I sampled during my trip to Hokkaido, Japan....

The topic: our willingness to expand of our repertoire of food and ingredients

The panel of speakers: 2 Asian foodie vs 2 American foodies

The verdict....wouldn't be that difficult to guess....

As a person whom is privileged to grow up in a place with a history can be shared through its cuisines, a culture embraces an eating philosophy that all moving creatures with their backs facing the Sun can be consumed, and a culinary belief where the distinction of textures between the various cuts within a slab of beef brisket should be cherished; it was difficult at first for me to understand how one would deliberately restrict their knowledge in ingredients....ie shrimps only come headless and edible chicken parts only consist of muscles. My fascination on foreign and odd looking bites, could be one's nightmare.


As I began unfolding my "fresh" sashimi experience, me peeling the flesh of a Pudan Shrimp (ボタン海老 - 牡丹虾) off its skeleton when it was still very much alive, my friend from the other side of the panel simply looked horrified.

As I began to dissect this conversation, I came to realise, culinary experience for some of us including myself, is something that we thrive to gain. There is nothing more thrilling than seeing the unfamiliar and the strange. It is almost like an addiction, an sensory experience that would give us cognitive pleasure.

However, if this sensory exposure or imagination of a foreign food could yield an experience so alarming and fearful, the gustation of flavour would simply be overwhelmed and most likely be affected in a negative aspect. If that is the case, why are we still criticising those for not being adventurous in culinary experience?

I too do have intense struggles when faced with certain types of food. My most recent experience would have to be the Pork Lung Soup I savoured during my trip to Hong Kong. Organ meats are definitely a challenge for me, but as Mr. Choi Lan (蔡瀾先生 - a famous food critic in Asia, and someone I very much admire) said, you must let down your mental guards when it comes to food; you have to taste it and taste it again before you presume your likings, and then you will be able to open yourself to all that this world has to offer.

And my verdict on the soup? It was honestly the most unimaginable experience. The flavour was delicate yet complex. The 5 tastes were perfectly balanced, and the combination of pork and Chinese almonds brought out the natural umami from all the ingredients. The lung pieces themselves matched very closely with sweetbreads in its texture, minus the intensity of game flavour. Délicieux!

What's your insight on this? I will leave here another picture of a dish I often dream of....

Recipe: Israeli Couscous Infused with Chanterelles....

A follow-up of a related post:
http://lafleuraucacao.blogspot.com/2008/09/affair-with-chanterelles.html

~ Israeli Couscous Infused with Chanterelles.... ~

by Blanche IP

Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 ¼ cups Israeli couscous*
1 ½ cups water or chicken broth
2 tbs unsalted butter
6 ounces Golden Chanterelles or other types of mushrooms
3 tbs herb infused extra virgin olive oil**
½ lb boneless chicken thighs – with or without skin, cut into bite size pieces
2 tbs soy sauce
1 ts sugar
1 tbs rice wine (optional)
1 ½ cup shelled edamame beans – frozen***

Salt and pepper to taste
Grated Pecorino Romano cheese to serve (optional)

Instructions:

1. Marinate chicken thigh pieces in soy sauce, sugar and rice wine for 30 mins.

2. Clean chanterelles by lightly wiping them with a damp paper towel. Hand tear chanterelles into bite size pieces.

3. In an iron skillet or pan, dry sauté chanterelle without oil in high heat until the mushrooms begin to brown lightly and sweat. Set them aside in a bowl.

4. In the same skillet over high heat, add 1 tbs of butter with 1 tbs herb infused olive oil. Sauté the chicken pieces until brown on all sides and fully cooked (if skin is left on, sauté skin side down first – will keep chicken more juicy and flavourful). Remove from skillet and set pieces aside in a bowl. Keep the skillet un-washed as the brown bits aka ‘fond’ will be one of the flavouring agents for the dish.

5. In a 2 quart pot over high heat, add remaining butter and toast the Israeli couscous for 5 minutes. Add the water or broth and stir. Cover pan with lid until the content comes to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and allow it to simmer for 30-40 mins or until al-dente with pot partly covered. Stir occasionally.

6. Place edamame in a microwave-safe bowl and heat until steaming. Add them along with chicken pieces and remaining herb infused olive oil into pot with cooked couscous. Stir gently, and add salt and pepper to taste.

7. Heat the skillet with fond over high heat. Gently fold chanterelles into the couscous and transfer mixture into the hot skillet. Allow the mixture to stand in hot skillet for 5 minutes before serving.

8. Present it with sprig of rosemary or thyme, and serve with grated Pecorino Romano cheese and a lightly dressed arugula salad....

* If you have a Trader Joes near by, their Harvest Grains Blend is an excellent substitution. It is a mixture of Israeli couscous, orzo, baby garbanzo beans and red quinoa. This savoury deliciousness can be cooked in 15 minutes.

** My Herb Infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil consists of garlic (finely chopped and sauté in oil till brown and crisp), mixture of dried herbs (any kind to your liking), and lots of chopped sun-dried tomato. The herb mixture is allowed to infuse in extra virgin olive oil for at least 2 weeks prior use. Both the oil and the herb mixture were used in this recipe.

*** For the best results, package of frozen salted edamame pod
s should be used. The package should first be defrosted and pods would then be shelled to retrieve the plump edamame beans within.

....and of course, nothing gets better than a meal that has a bittersweet ending....though my dear friend and I decided to begin with one....an excellent Canadian Vidal ice wine and crème brûlée....

....

Mambo Jambo....MAMONCILLO! A little tangy taste from the tropics....

Haymarket has done it again....discovered another species of fruit, foreign to most, but friends to Central and South Americans....introducing the Mamoncillo....


I was not intrigue by them at first, since they have a strong resemblance to the green olive *something I have yet to learn to appreciate after many trials....which included the dirty martini of course....heh....but after having seen them in 2 consecutive visits to Haymarket, my reservation was overrun by my curiosity. I observed and picked the worker whom appeared to be most approachable....from my shopping experience at Haymarket, sometimes that's a necessity for a successful inquiry =P


And indeed, it was a success! I was granted a brief description and a public demonstration on how to savour this treat. With the free demo, he earned his business....half pound of it....and without hesitation, I withdrew a single emerald gem from my bag. The feeling of its skin on mine was oddly familiar. It was very much like a Longan....a fruit from Southeast Asia....only softer and more waxy. My instinct was to peel the mamoncillo like a longan (Southeast Asians out there should know what I mean), and the creamy orange plump flesh slipped out without an effort. I popped it into my mouth and attempted to take a bite....it didn't take long for me to realise that I was supposed to suck the pulp that encased the stone of the fruit. Don't let the fullness of the flesh fool you....the stone itself practically occupied ~95% of the volume within its shell, and the slippery pulp was a challenge for my tongue to undress....but I was not easy discourage, as it was simply delicious! The tangy, juicy membrane was refreshing, followed by the intense sweetness with floral accent, and unlike other fruits, it had a long finishing. Although this fruit is genetically related to the lychee, it took me a while before I can brainstorm a food that masks the textual experience....it was yet another fruit from Asia, 黄皮, or the Clausena lansium.


Enough said, I will leave you with an interesting fact. According to Caribbean folk wisdom (especially in Jamaica), girls learn the art of kissing by eating the sweet flesh of this fruit, also it is said that if a girl finds two seeds then they'll have twins!